Skincare 101

Navigating the world of skincare can be confusing, especially with all the latest "miracle breakthrough” ingredients you MUST use for perfect skin or the 8-step skincare routine of celebrities. You might find yourself wondering: which ingredients do I actually need? What order should I apply them in? Effective skincare doesn't have to be complicated. By understanding a few key categories of ingredients and how they work together, you can build a simple, effective routine that truly nourishes your skin. For our purposes, we're going to focus on natural (not synthetic) ingredients, as that's what we use in our formulations. Let's break down the essential ingredient types that form the foundation of healthy skincare.

Cleansing Agents (Surfactants)

Cleansing agents remove dirt, excess oils, makeup, and daily buildup without stripping your skin's natural protective barrier. Natural surfactants work with your skin to cleanse effectively while maintaining balance. One of nature's most effective cleansing methods follows the principle that "like dissolves like" – oils naturally dissolve and lift away oil-based impurities, makeup, and sebum while nourishing your skin in the process.

Examples: Jojoba oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, hemp seed oil, castor oil, sweet almond oil, saponified oils (soap from coconut, olive, or castor oil), clay minerals, oat-based cleansers.

Active Ingredients

Active ingredients are powerhouse components of skincare, working at a cellular level to target concerns and deliver visible improvements. They address aging, wrinkles, uneven tone, sensitivity, and support the skin’s natural renewal. Natural actives fall into key categories: anti-aging and firming, brightening agents, hydrating and barrier- strengthening actives and protective antioxidants.

Examples: Vitamin C (from rosehip or sea buckthorn), astaxanthin (microalgae), bakuchiol (plant-based retinol alternative), curcumin (turmeric extract), fruit-derived AHAs (glycolic, malic, citric, tartaric acids), niacinamide, aloe vera, green tea extract, vitamin E and willow bark extract.

Humectants

Humectants are moisture magnets that draw water from the environment and deeper layers of your skin to the surface, helping to keep your complexion plump and hydrated. Think of them as tiny sponges that attract and hold onto water molecules.

Examples: Hyaluronic acid (plant-derived), honey, vegetable glycerin, aloe vera gel, sodium PCA (plant derived), sodium lactate (from fermented sugars), hydrosols or floral waters (not technically humectants but very hydrating)



Emollients

Emollients are the skin-softening heroes that smooth and condition your skin by filling in the tiny gaps between skin cells. They make your skin feel silky, supple, and comfortable while helping to restore its natural barrier function.

Examples: Grass-fed tallow, cupuacu butter, kokum butter, jojoba oil, olive squalane, rosehip seed oil, safflower oil, hemp seed oil, shea butter, mango butter

Occlusives

Occlusives create a protective barrier on your skin's surface that prevents water loss and shields against environmental stressors. They're like a gentle, breathable blanket that locks in moisture and keeps irritants out. These natural barriers work by forming a film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss while allowing your skin to breathe.

Examples: grass-fed tallow, beeswax, cupuacu butter, kokum butter, shea butter, mango butter, lanolin and cocoa butter (excellent for body care but can clog facial pores)

*As you can see, some ingredients fall into more than one category.

Preservatives

Natural preservatives protect your skincare products from harmful bacteria, mold, and other microorganisms. They ensure your products remain safe and effective throughout their lifespan. Water-based formulations must include a preservative system to prevent microbial growth, however most anhydrous (water-free) formulations do not require preservatives. Vitamin E and rosemary oleoresin are not technically preservatives but rather powerful antioxidants that help prevent oils from going rancid and extend shelf life by protecting against oxidation.

Examples: Leucidal® Liquid (Radish Root Ferment Filtrate), AMTicide® Coconut (Coconut Ferment), Geogard® Ultra, willow bark extract, vitamin E oil, rosemary oleoresin

The Perfect Skincare Ritual

For optimal results, apply your skincare products in this order:

  1. Cleanse: Start with a gentle cleanser (either a mild surfactant-based formula or a cleansing oil) to remove impurities without stripping the skin.
  2. Treat & Hydrate: Apply a serum, toner, or hydrosol containing humectants, actives, or soothing botanicals. Apply while skin is still slightly damp to boost absorption. If you are a no-frills kind of person, you can skip this step and just apply your moisturizer and/or oil to your damp face.
  3. Follow with a moisturizer, balm or facial oil that contains emollients and occlusives to smooth, condition, and seal in all the beneficial ingredients while creating a protective barrier that maintains hydration throughout the day or night. You might choose to use a moisturizer daily and add a facial oil at night for extra repair and rejuvenation.
  4. Exfoliate: You should gently exfoliate one or two times per week during the cleanse step, unless you have oily or acne-prone skin, in which case you could increase the frequency as needed.

This ritual ensures each product type can perform its specific function, creating a harmonious symphony of skin nourishment that works with your skin's natural processes.

*A Note on Our Philosophy: This guide is written from a no-nonsense, minimalist perspective that celebrates the wisdom of natural skincare. We believe in the power of simple, time-tested ingredients over fleeting trends and marketing hype. While mainstream dermatology may have different viewpoints, we stand by our commitment to natural formulations that work in harmony with your skin's innate intelligence. We reject the consumerist culture that encourages endless product accumulation and the constant chase for the next "holy grail" ingredient. Instead, we advocate for thoughtful curation – choosing fewer, higher-quality products that truly serve your skin rather than cluttering your bathroom cabinet with unused promises.